4. Mount Fitzroy
DAY 190
I didn't get too much sleep last night as a bunch of people decided to have a party right behind my cabin. Pretty tough crowd as the temperature was around 6° and they were partying outside. I woke up again at 4 o'clock and I looked outside. The sky was clear and full of stars. Should I take a chance and go out and try to take some pictures during sunrise? The answer was immediately yes. This is the only chance I have as I am leaving tomorrow. So it is either today or never.
A quickly packed what I need for a quick hike. I have my camera gear and spare clothes. I leave the water bottle behind as there's a plenty of water along the trail. I'm on my way in 20 minutes heading towards the trailhead. It is still dark outside. They're only a few dogs barking, otherwise, nothing moves. The sunrise today is at 0635. It is a two hour hike to the spot where I want to take pictures from. I better move quickly, I don't want to miss my chance. I set up a pretty quick pace. There is no wind and I start getting pretty warm very quickly . I end up hiking only in shorts and two T-shirts. It is 6° outside at the bottom of the trail. There's nobody around me, but I can see a few headlamps some distance ahead of me on the trail. I don't think I will catch them. It is nice and clear night with more than half moon, so I turned off my headlamp as my eyes I adjusted very fast. I quickly caught up with a group ahead of me, and from all the people around the world I hit another Russian group. I quickly passed them and leave them behind. The sky behind me is getting brighter with a beautiful orange glow. I don't wanna stop and get distracted and “waste” time on that so I keep going. It is a very beautiful hike with nobody around. I was thinking about bringing my headphones and listening to some music, but I left them at home. I want to hear the nature as well, not just see it.
I keep checking the time. I'm doing OK, but I don't have any extra time to stop and look around. The sky is getting brighter all around me. So far there are only a few clouds around. I'm hoping that the mountain will be clear today. The forecast says it is supposed to be cloudy, so they are wrong already. I have about 20 minutes to sunrise and there is the first viewpoint coming up. I get up there and there is the mountain right in front of me. No clouds. It looks absolutely amazing. But this is not my destination today. I took a few pictures and I continue hiking. I just can't believe my luck. And as I am coming down on the trail, the sun starts to illuminate the top of the mountain. The mountain starts to glow in beautiful red and orange colors. The first just the top, then the whole mountain. I'm taking one picture after another. I don't want to miss any moments. It is breathtaking. There are huge and nasty clouds behind the mountains but the mountain itself is clear for now. I should have some really good pictures. I get to the point by the river where I wanted to be 15 minutes ago. But I got a nice shots from here as well. I have about 200 pictures by now. These are kind of pictures you see in all brochures and books about Patagonia. I'm totally happy. By now the clouds are coming down and in front of the mountain. I was very lucky for that 30 minutes window with no clouds. The weather in the mountains changes quickly and especially here in Patagonia. I'm going back on the same trail. Then I saw a barely visible small trail leading down to the river. I have my pictures so now I'm just looking for a different composition. To my surprise I get down to a beautiful waterfall. Wow, you can frame the waterfalls with the mountain behind creating gorgeous scene. It would have been a perfect spot during the sunrise. But I can't be at the all those places in the same time. I took more pictures and I am totally satisfied with what I have right now.
The pictures of this mountain is exactly what I wanted to get on this trip. I knew very well that the odds are against me. But somehow it all happened and one of those pictures (or more) will be soon framed in my house. I packed all my gear and heading down. I'm smiling from ear to ear. I can take my time going back down as I have nothing else to plan for today. I am heading down there are people coming up. Further I descent the more people are on the trail. I've never seen so many people on the trail. There must have been 100s of them. Well, they are all late for the big show. The mountain is all in clouds by now.
I'm walking down and I see a rabbit coming directly towards me. He's in a full speed and crosses the trail about 5 m ahead of me. And soon I can see the reason why he is in such a hurry. Right behind him is a nice big furry fox. The fox sees me and stops about 20 m from me, letting his rabbit go. The he just stands there for a little bit and then starts running around for a few minutes. I've had my camera already in my hand so I took a few pictures of the fox. That's pretty cool ending of a perfect hike.
I get to the bottom of the trail and there are incredible number of people still heading up. It is only 10 o'clock in the morning. I already have hundreds of pictures and 15 km hike behind me. It feels good. Back in the campground. Perfect timing. People already left so I have showers to myself. I have a breakfast/lunch and can't wait to download the pictures. When I finally get to it, I am more than happy with what I've got. I know I got lucky today, but I made it work as well and that makes me feel pretty good.
And that was in another perfect day in Patagonia. Unfortunately, internet sucks over here so I cannot update my block or send anything other than a few pictures from cell. Hopefully tomorrow.