1. Hola Guatemala
I didn’t sleep well last night. Actually, almost not at all. Today is a big day, sort of. I’ve crossed the international borders hundreds, maybe even thousands of times. But this is different. I am going to places where is required plenty of paperwork and with big bureaucracies to match. I don’t know the language and I have a big bike to haul around.
I feel I have done all I could to prepare so lets start. The first thing that didn’t go very well today was the weather. It was suppose stop raining by midnight then 6 a.m. Well, it was pouring when I got up. Maybe it will stop. A quick look at the satellite pictures were not too encouraging. Oh well, I had a breakfast and started packing. If I was standing in a shower, it would feel the same. This is gonna be fun. With my raingear on I am heading for the border. It is only 20 km so in no time I am at the Mexican side.
Luckily they have a big roof over the inspection area so I parked my bike right in the middle. You quickly learn here that is easier to apologize than to ask for a permission. It is 7 in the morning. It looks like a shift change and nobody is in any hurry. There are two of us waiting for immigration papers. It takes one hour before anybody notices us. I have all my papers ready so to get the actual exit stamp in my passport takes only 5 minutes. The next is my bike. I have to cancel my temporary import permit for Mexico in order to get back $700 lean they put on my bike. After running around looking for proper place to do it I am back right beside the immigration. They don’t make it easy on you. The border crossing might be open 24 hrs but the office where you deal with your permit opens at 8. Good thing I wasn’t here at 6. My paperwork is ready, again, so no issue there. The officer went to check my VIN on my motorcycle and took at least 20 pics of my bike from every possible angle. Help yourself, it is a nice bike. All done and got the required papers in my hand. Right when I was leaving, another biker shows up. His name is Luis and he is from Peru and is heading to Guatemala as well. Great, I’ll wait for him and I can tag along. His English is as good as my Spanish but Spanish rules here.
Meantime the storm is right above us and rains so thick I can’t even see the other side of the short bridge leading to Guatemala border. I had some Mexican pesos left so I changed them right there on the side of the road for Guatemalan Quetzals. The rate was horrible but I didn’t have too many options. At least I have some money to pay for the fees on the other side. The Mexican paperwork took just over one hour.
Luis is ready and off we ride across the bridge to Guatemala side together. It is still raining buckets. My papers are getting wet from my dripping clothes. I let Luis to take charge and I just hanging around. It looks like we went too far and missed the immigration. The Guatemala side is total chaos compare to Mexican side. You don’t know what is an official office or a street vendor. We found the immigration and I got 90 day visa in about 2 minutes. Only if they told you where to go … Back to the customs. Luis has problems with his 2 passports and the officer has no idea what to do. Then is my turn. Oh boy. Our bike or car registration from BC don’t look too official. And the officer gets puzzled by my BC insurance expiry day. It is not valid south of US border anyway but he thinks it is my registration which expiring. The back and forth went on for about 30’. Only. Thanks to Luis. They need more copies of everything. He doesn’t like my copies so he sends me to get new one. But where? Down the street. I make the copies and I am back again. Then he gives me bunch of papers he just printed out and tells me to go and make copies again. He just printed it! Arrrrgh! No, he can’t make the copies in the office. That’s for official business only. And what am I, a side gig? This goes one for good one hour. It is a good test of your patience. It was awesome to have Luis there to go through exactly the same process. Anyway, final few copies and I have my temporary import permit for Guatemala. Almost, I just need to go the next office and give the papers to other guy. And he wants copies of my Guatemala entry stamp I just got in my passport. I get back and one more thing, I have to pay the fee. Where? In the bank down the street. Geeeez. Cash only. Thanks to my changed money this was only 2 minutes job once I finally found the bank. Back to the customs office and I have all my papers in my hand. Wow. I am free to go with all legal documents required. It took all together over 3 hours. I’d probably still be there if not for Luis’ help. Thanks very much buddy 👍
We suit up quickly and leave before they come with some other requests. The scenery in Guatemala is completely different from Mexico. Mexico looks like Switzerland compare to Guatemala. The standard of living is MUCH lower here. Tons of trucks on narrow road makes it a slow go. And the speed bumps! Even worse than in Mexico. And people and chaos everywhere. There is no rule on the road. Jungle rules. I ride together with Luis for about an hour and then I head for the mountains. I stopped to say thanks and good byes and to wish him a good trip home. He went up to Alaska and is on his way home.
I leave the main road and start climbing right away. Very narrow, wet and soon foggy road. All the way up to 2,750m. Luckily, my destination is not too far. I got lost again on approach to Quetzeltenango but found my hotel after few wrong turns. I made it. I am in Guatemala! And the hotel costs entire $23 … It is not exactly a Shangri La but what do expect for that kind of money. I quickly unpacked and went hunting for food. Somewhat I was really hungry. Found some nice taco place and they even had Coronas. Life is good. Back in the hotel. Sent some emails to Antigua, they are expecting me there tomorrow. Can’t wait.
It was a challenging day but all is good at the end. Adios.