1. Hola Nicaragua
Day 75. An early morning launch today. No too much to pack, Everything but toiletries and cameras stayed on the bike in front of my window. It is 15 km to the border and I have a plan. The sky is grey with lots of fog and light drizzle. Not exactly uplifting mood. Driving towards the border I feel some apprehension, I am not gonna lie. It is a remainder from the times growing up behind the Iron Curtain. Every border crossing there at those time was an adventure. But not in a good way. I am sure I have a PTSD from that. On top of that, all reports from people who’s been to and from Nicaragua report horror stories from all their border crossings. Line ups, red tape, you name it. Not a happy place. I haven’t read that anybody made it through in less than 3 hours. 5-6 is the “norm”. That’s where my plan comes in place. It is early morning on Sunday. There shouldn’t be too many people around if I am right.
The road is all but empty. Nothing but jungle on the both sides. Soon enough there is a truck line up leading to the border. It is still 5km to the border. Strangely enough, the trucks are all facing north towards Honduras and are parked on both side of the road. But we are still in Honduras … Who knows. I can see the gate in front of me on the top of the hill.
It all looks like a bunch of food vending shacks on both sides of the road. No signs where to go. I did a few loops until somebody pointed to a small building. A “building” is a very generous description of it. Nobody’s around. One guys from the group standing outside goes inside and waves me in. GUA “Migracion” - passport control. I hand over my passport and boom, there is an exit stamp from GUA. That easy! The next window is “Aduana” - customs. That’s where normally problems start. I need to cancel my bike’s import permit. I am told to fill a form and and in another 2 minutes, it is all done! It is like sitting in the dentist chair and waiting in a spasm for the pain to come. It never came, though. At least not here. Honduras is done.
Now the fun part. Nicaragua. If Honduras’ building was falling apart, Nicaragua “offices” were bunch of sea containers. Handful of people are standing around in front of “plywood” structure. Some in uniform, some in track suits. Real chaos, no sense of any hierarchy or organization. I asked and I am told that yes, this is Aduana. And … nothing. I ask what do they need. It looks like nobody really gives a rat’s ass about anything here. Finally they ask for my docs. I handed over what they ask for. They check all and all is good. They ask me for the email conferming the permission to enter the country. Here it is, right on my phone. They were happy. Then one of the uniformed girls comes over and starts talking to me. Or rather over me or around me. Not over me, she is half my size … She doesn’t make an eye contact and has this 1,000 mile stare. I don’t know if she is talking to me or one of her mates. Then she asks if I have a drone. I say no. It’s been reported everywhere that Nicaragua has this weird obsession with drones. Not allowed in the country. They are considered a “spy equipment”. Seriously. I left mine Antigua, so I am good. They start to look into all my bags. Not any systematic search but they opened whatever they felt like. They laughed when they discovered my cloth pins. Go ahead, I can take take it. Then I had to explain what is my charger do. And why do I need a battery pack. It was funny in a way. They asked for an original bike registration. Unlike other countries, we in Canada have everything digital. So I have made a good copy and laminated it so it looks more official. The point is to be and look confident. When they asked if this is an original, I said yes. They called another higher ups and he OK it. Then all off them just stood there. I asked if we are done and they said yes. Now where is Migracion? In another container around the corner.
This one is tougher. Going back and forth where I am from and where am I going. It is hard to understand them, They are behind the glass partition and there is a small window opening at my waist hight. I looked like a bowing Japanese businessman. When they asked for $13 for the entry visa I know I am making a headway here. I gave them 1x$10 and 3x$1. They looked at the tenner and kept checking it. I know they want crisp new bills here. Tough shit. They asked me for another one. I told them that’s all USD I have so they could either take that or I will pay in Nicaraguan Cordóbas. They didn’t ask more questions and took the bill. I am getting bold here … The sound of a stamp hitting the passport page sounds so nice. Adios.
Now the last and usually the longest part. Getting the permit for my bike. They need all my documents, again. Usual back and forth but then they start typing, I know I am winning here ! It took awhile but at the end I got my permit. But. It is valid only for 3 days. That’s OK, I didn’t want to stay too long anyway. Is that it? They say yes. Back to my bike where they first checked everything. I asked the guy in the track suite if I am good to go and he gave me the thumb up. Awesome!
But I knew I am not done yet. I get on the bike and few hundred meters there is a checkpoint to check that you have all checked. Took all my doc again. Another guy came and offer me an accident insurance. It is mandatory here. I knew about this before hand so I was ready. Standard price $12. He does it on the spot. Meantime they checked all my docs and I am good to go. For real this time.
Wow, 1:15! I think I broke all the records here. It wasn’t difficult, you only had to find your own way. Nicaragua side definitely not friendly at all. Not hostile, just didn’t care at all. Oh well, I am through! I can breath again. It looks like my plan regarding the best time to cross the border worked really well. But, it could all be just a dumb luck.
I am way too early for my overnight place which is only about 50 km away. So I ride really slowly and taking in the new country. I feel like I went back few decades. Unlike GUA and HON, people are walking on the side of the road instead of riding their scooters. Looks very poor. No nice buildings. And back to jungle again. I stopped at the first gas station. I have full tank but I need local money. Inside their Mart there were 4 ATMs. The second one worked and I have nice crisp local Cordobas. Then I tried my phone and after a quick reset, I got connected to the local network. It is a good day. Had a little breakfast and continued to my destination.
My place for the night is an apartment in house. I have a 2 bdrm apartment to myself. Bike is behind the lock gate. Mission accomplished. Now dinner, F1 race and decided on tomorrow’s plan. Welcome to Nicaragua!