2. Gocta Waterfalls
Day 121
I am ready to discover more adventures after a good night sleep. I tried to pay for my hotel with my credit cards, but none of them worked. What’s that all about? Luckily, I withdrew enough cash from the ATM last night to last me a week. After leaving the hotel I stopped by the ATM again to get more cash, just in case.
This town is small, but busy. And full of rickshaws. They have no rear view mirrors so they have no idea what’s around them. And they ride and turn and stop whenever and wherever they feel like. It is always a guessing game for me. I din’t think there are worse drivers then in Ecuador but there are. In Peru. They drive in the opposite lane for no apparent reason. Cutting corners is mandatory, it seems. I had to take pretty quick evasive actions today when there was a truck or a bus in my lane and I had nowhere to go. As I said before, the biggest danger while driving here are the local drivers.
It is very hot right in the morning. 30˚C at 0900. It was 40˚C last night … The road is nice with occasional potholes. I am driving through a wide valley which is getting more narrow by every minute. There are lots of road constructions which run on fixed schedule. If you arrive one minute past the closure time, you might be stuck there for hours. I was lucky with the first ones when I got there only few minutes before opening.
The road is going through a very narrow canyon now with walls towering above me on both sides. The road follows the river at the bottom and it is all very impressive. Luckily it is beginning of the dry season, so the canyon walls are dry. But you can see the route the water takes when is coming down when it is wet. It must be an impressive sight. There are some waterfalls along the way and even some pretty substantial ones but these ones are only “practise” ones compare to what is coming.
Today is a very short stage with only 95 km to ride. I am going to a small village in the mountain which is a start of a hike to one of the biggest waterfalls in the world, Gocta waterfalls. I turn off the highway onto a dirt road and there is a problem, a road construction. And according to their schedule, they will open the road for the traffic in 2 hrs. Nothing to do then sit down, relax and catch a mid day nap. So much for getting there early and do the hike today.
The road opens on time and and I head up the steep hill amidst the gravel and dirt road. Lots of dust from the cars I let go ahead of me. A big mistake. Fortunately the road is not too long and ends up in a small village of Cocachimba where it ends. The village is a small as it gets with the population of 207. There is not much here, few houses around the football field in the middle. Two or three restaurants and 2 small stores. About half a dozen small hotels catering to tourists. That’s it. The whole village sits on the side of the hill overlooking the valleys bellow at the end of which is a giant waterfall.
I find my hotel past the village in the jungle. You have to look for it to find it. I even needed to go old school and ask for directions. The entire “hotel” is a small house, fairly new. There are only 5 or 6 rooms and I got the best one. The corner room with a view of the falls and the valley below. There is also a small balcony I can sit outside and contemplate the black holes in the universe. Or something similarly light. As matter of fact, I am sitting at my open window writing this blog and there is the waterfall right in front of me. I want the view like that at home! The view of the fall is impressive even at the distance of about 6 km. What a sight!
I was a bit late because of the road construction so I ask if I have enough time to get to the falls. They tell me it is 12 km round trip and 2.5-3 hrs hike one direction. So 5-6 hrs hike. It is 1330. The sunset is at 1811 and I will be in a valley on a jungle trail. It is pushing it but what the heck, lets go. I quickly pack some water, headlamp and spare T-shirts, my Nikon and and tripod and I am on my way. It is still hot and humid as soon as I get in the jungle. The trail, like everything else in this part of the world has going up or down, left or right. There is no such thing as a “straight and level” here. The trail is very nice but not easy. Lots of stairs so there is no need for a stair master in the gym. I pass very few people on the trail. There are few view points along the way, each more and more impressive. The locals make living guiding gringos to the fall. There is no way you can stray of course. There is either jungle there or a steep cliff down. They offer even horseback ride there and back. I’ve seen a few. The guide leads the horse walking and a gringo is riding a horse. While locals don’t even break a sweat, I am gasping for every oxygen molecule there is around. My T-shirt is soaken wet from constant climbing or descending. I don’t know which is worse. There are distance markers on the side of the trail and I am making a good progress. And finally after 1,5 hrs of hard labour I am standing in front of the fall. WOW. I have never seen anything like it. You have to look straight up to see the top of the bottom fall. There are actually two falls. You don’t see the top one while standing bellow. It is hard to describe it. I climb down to the water level and take more “summit” pictures for the record books. Then I climb a bit up the hill to take more pics and just to sit there and admire the beauty. This is definitely of the the highlights of the trip.
What is interesting that this falls, which named Gocta Falls, is that they have not been known to the outside world until 2002. The locals were keeping them to themselves. There is allegedly a blond mermaid living bellow the falls. Well, I looked everywhere. If there was a mermaid there, I would’ve definitely found her. No mermaid. The government decided few years later at 2008 to develop the area. They built few hotels and greatly improved the trail. The falls itself are ranked the 5th highest in the world at 771m (2,530’). Well, with 200+ pictures of the falls it is time to head back. One small detail I overlooked. I forgot to eat today. Seriously, My last meal was a sandwich last night. And I am getting tired. No wonder I am losing weight. At least I have water with me. The hike back seemed shorter but not easier. I got back in a good time well within the suggested time limit before the sunset. But I am really tired now. I forgot to mention that you need to buy a ticket to get on the trail. It is only 15 Sols ($5). It is well worth it and goes to the locals who maintain the trail.
A quick clean up and I head down town in search of food. There is basically only one bar/restaurant open. They have nice 80s music playing and a great cocktail menu so I go no further. I start with couple of beers to replenish the liquids I lost and then I start exploring the local drinks, Pisco. I am having a great time all by myself there. I debate with the waitress which drink to try next and she tells me all about the drink. It is all part of discovering new things … Anyway, after the 3rd one it was time to quit as I have to find my hotel in the jungle in the middle of the night. Back at the hotel I was sitting on my porch looking at the valley bellow lit by the moon. Awesome end of the awesome day. I am having such a good time here I’ve decided to stay here one more day to relax. I am in no hurry.
Today is Day 122
I slept well but I am pretty stiff from yesterday. Nothing 2 Advils couldn’t fix. I had a nice breakfast served outside in my hotel and then just lounged around. I went around town which took entire 10’. Got something to drink and start working on my future plans. Now I am sitting by the window looking at the falls and writing the blog. The plan for tonight is back to the bar to try the rest of the drinks… Nobody said this adventuring stuff is easy.